It is a Sunday, and more is open in Rome than one would think. Indeed there are places that are apparently only open on Sunday. Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza, for instance. Yes, it is a church. Little and by Borromini, it is revered by those who know just enough about Baroque architecture. I read a book about baroque architecture, so I qualify. It is anomalous in the baroque in that it's very white inside, and enormously peaceful. I have on this trip cast a few affectionate slights at just how really spiritual these Roman churches are, but there really are only a couple of them that give one a hushed feeling. Sant Ivo is one. It is the only church of all we have been to where we both felt compelled to sit in the pews, just being there.
Of course, outside Sant'Ivo is just as good, but all different. There it is great fun, and the most charming of all of Rome's many little spires.