As far as I can tell, tourist weather is HOT. I mean, that is the temperature when all the tourism peaks in this famous tourism city I am living in. And though things should be cooling down, both with the weather and with the tourists now that it's October, Autumn is slow in coming on. It is still warmer than I would like and than is normal, and there are still quite a few tourists around. But as I said, this is a famously touristic city, and so even though it may eventually grow too cold for anyone but masochists to swim in the ocean, and even my thin down jacket may not suffice against the winds of January, the tourists only ever wane to a certain degree.
At best? I may walk through an uncrowded, half closed old city on a bitter day, or not have to dodge anyone strolling by the long walk along the ocean.
And yet, I don't know why I am telling you all of this because it is not what I meant by tourist weather.
Not at all!
I meant something stranger.
Gusts of nationalities come sweeping through town like weather fronts. There is a weather to who is visiting this town at any given time. That is the Tourist Weather I meant! And though I love writing to you about things I have figured out, or showing you unusual phenomenon chock full of my theories, I'll admit I am baffled here.
Two cases among many:
Last week we stopped for a drink between the old town and the sea on a large outdoor patio. Almost no one was seated there for happy hour when we arrived, but over the next couple of hours as we drew out our stay with a spontaneous treat of oysters and potatoes, the whole place slowly filled up with Chinese people. They were different ages, different kinds of groups, and yet no table knew any other table. But nearly every one of at least 20 tables was filled with Chinese people, Chinese people speaking Chinese! What was going on?
I don't know.
Today we climbed up out of the old town onto the hill where the city once started in Medieval times, though little remains of that history. There were few Chinese people there, maybe none. There were maybe a few Japanese visitors. I heard some Americans talking about our neighborhood, oddly. But that was an exception. This is, of course an entirely different country than where I come from, so people were all naturally speaking a different language than my own.
And that language was...
Russian.
Russian!
I have walked along the ocean through storms of German. I have been on the golden square when it was blowing wild with Japanese. And I have wandered through the great shopping street of the city while all about me was a murmured Swedish, or Norwegian, or maybe Finnish.
Sorry, I'm not so great at languages.
But this is what I mean by "Tourist Weather", unfathomable sudden congregations and sweeps of specific nationalities.
I have no idea what causes it. I follow the regular weather forecasts pretty closely, though they rarely seem to change much around here. But no one I know of runs Tourist Weather forecasts. I wish someone would do so in order to explain all this. I'd be fascinated.
And I might even be swayed to plan my life around it a little.
"I hear that up in the hills above the Chagall Museum there is going to be a beautiful squall of Scottish people pouring down the streets in the early afternoon." I might say, adding "Let's go up there and see them. I love to hear them talk."































