Best painting in the palaces

 

While I muck about with the many pictures I took of Genoa, some of which maybe don't need any mucking about, it occurs to me I have a picture of the best painting in that city. And it might be nicer of me not to scribble all over it because it really knocked me out.

One of the reasons we wanted to go to Genoa was to see their Caravaggio. We did see it, The Ecce Homo, but that is not the painting I am here to talk about. It has a disputed provenance, basically meaning some people think it is by Caravaggio, and some don't. I lean towards it being a Caravaggio, and that's mostly down to some beautiful passages in how Caravaggio paints living flesh, nevertheless it's not one of the best Caravaggios. 

But unbeknownst to me, in one of the palaces, filled with many paintings, there were two paintings by Durer. 

Though I have of course seen pictures of his work, I have encountered very few actual Durers in my life in person, despite being an admirer. Paintings by 15th century geniuses aren't just floating around in every museum one wanders into. And before showing you this portrait that I liked so much I will give you my odd, offhand take on Durer:

Durer is the Western artist from the longest time ago whose work sometimes doesn't look like it's particularly old in any way at all (though here I'll grant the clothes give it away).

I hope I didn't build that up too much. Portraits aren't everyone's cup of tea. But it's just so interesting and fresh looking to me. I love that lower right eye, the clarity, and that beautiful green.

The other Durer is too full weird not too look old, but it's a great, unique fun kind of old. I wouldn't even begin to break down this painiting.

Durer has that composed, almost symbolic carefulness of the painting of the era he was born into (the 1400's Northern Renaissance), but sometimes there will be this lovely naturalism juxtaposed or appearing in his work, like you can see the future of art taking shape. One delightful aspect of Durer is just how all over the map he can be.

This wasn't in Genoa, but is a watercolor of a hare by Durer I always loved and maybe helps make my point a little:

There were some other wonderful paintings in the Genoa Palaces, and one in particular might come into things in the coming days. But for today I sign off as I am, ever your faithful correspondent.

f.